January 17 2008

Sex in San Francisco
It’s not often that I’m in California and reminded of my Midwestern roots—particularly from a wine perspective, but sure enough, I was in San Francisco this week having a business lunch at le Petit Robert in Russian Hill when I see a Michigan sparkling wine. L. Mawby’s second label, M. Lawrence, is represented on the wine list, by the glass no less, with their sparking wine called “Sex.”
L. Mawby is also highlighted in the 2005 book, “The Great Wines of America” by Paul Lukacs—a bold choice in wineries for the author to include in the book given geography. Having tasted the “Sex” before, and been to the L. Mawby tasting room, I can vouch that their sparklers are excellent, but I did opt for a California butter-bomb chard at lunch thinking the sparkler might be a little dandy. Alas, I should have gone with my instinct as the California Chard was less than fantastic. My wife was not on this trip with me and I did not have the wine so I cannot say that I had “Sex” in San Francisco. Nevertheless, check out L. Mawby if you want to try something off the beaten track.
The Conundrum Killer in the Good Grape Wine Blogger Pack at Domaine547
I like Conundrum wine. There, I said it. Sure, there is some residual sugar, sure, it is an out and out quaffer, sure, it is somewhat expensive for what it is, but damned if it is not a tasty wine.
I have been on something of a personal mission to find a blended white that approximates that juicy goodness of Conundrum for a little less money. I am finding that the Conundrum blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Muscat Canelli and small amounts of Sémillon and Viognier is not easily duplicated. The Hey Mambo Swanky White and the Menage a Trois white blend are each enjoyable for what they are, but they don’t come close to challenging the layers of hedonistic flavor you get with the Conundrum (NOTE: this will be the only time I parrot Parker and use the word hedonistic).
However, in terms of pure enjoyment, the Brooks Amycas, a white blend made up of Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Muscat, comes pretty close to the Conundrum on the pleasure meter. It is a different kind of wine, crisper and brisker, but the same liveliness and the tropical fruits with a very balanced undercurrent of acid are present in both. The Amycas is a winner.
The Brooks Amycas white is one of three whites wines featured in the Good Grape Wine Blogger Pack at Domaine547. If you’re interested in trying this gem of a wine along with two other notable and delicious Rieslings, you can buy it at the Domaine547 web site.
Re-visiting Mondovino
I re-watched Mondovino this past weekend. I was mostly interested to check this out AFTER having been blogging for two years to see how my perspective might have changed or been better informed than the first time I watched it after it came out on DVD in 2005.
Mostly, I think I viewed it a couple of years ago with less of a discerning filter and insight into the polarizing divisiveness that is New World vs. Old World, particularly around Rolland and definitely around some of the issues with Parker’s palate.
However, upon re-reviewing, frankly, I have to say the documentary is pretty innocent and subtle for what it is. I think it rankled many folks mostly by virtue of the filmmaker, Jonathan Nossiter, and his manifested ego in how he made the film. It is definitely not cinema verite, at least as far as documentary’s go.
Undoubtedly, the movie does demonstrate a certain affectation—a refined Michael Moore, if you will. There are the awkward moments that aren’t edited out—with virtually everybody— nobody comes out wearing the glossy veneer of a filmmaker putting somebody’s best foot forward. There is the out of touch Bon Vivant James Suckling, Parker talking about his farting dogs, Neal Rosenthal looking like W.C. Fields with gin blossoms on his nose, the laughing, dismissive Rolland, Michael Mondavi clearly talking on cue with the press attaché lurking nearby and his father straining to hear what he says, et al. Doubtless, none of these subjects thought that their candid moments were going to make up the bulk of the film. Then there is the jarring juxtaposition of the music, the panning of the camera to non-sequitar scenery shots, including the abundant dog shots ...
Overall, I would have to say that I watched this documentary scratching my head wondering what the big deal was about, why Parker and Nossiter still snipe at each other. I would urge you to re-watch it with the addition of a year or two more worth of context in wine experience and let me know what you think.
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