September 27 2008
So much of our life and experience is based on outside influence – marketing, prevailing wisdom and the times.
I’m almost self-conscious to this, wondering if the financial crisis is going to imprint an indelible “Greatest Generation” thriftiness upon me, eschewing credit of any sort.
Yet, I know that the greatest gifts come from inside, my own understanding and principal.
From a wine perspective, case in point of influence based on the times is clearly Pinot Noir and its incredible rise in the last 5 – 7 years, influenced in part by a certain movie. Riesling is right around the bend, as well, this time from a grassroots movement from Sommeliers and wine professionals.
Another movement that we’ve seen in the media over the last two years is being green, eating local, a focus on heirloom vegetables, and the like. Yet, the translation point of this “localization” hasn’t quite manifested itself the wine world.
However, as I spend a weekend at my family’s lake house, enjoying an Indian summer weekend, Notre Dame Football on the television, rustling leaves in the background, quietude on the lake paces from me, wine glass beckoning, I have one wish for the next new thing.
I wish hybrid wines from LOCAL wineries across the country would become in vogue.
The fact is many of these wines are the showcase wines from wineries across the country – wineries that are not in California, Oregon or Washington. And, typically, these are estate wines, the wines a winery hangs its hat on made from their grapes from their vineyard; not the Cab and Chardonnay from grapes bought elsewhere.
I’m talking about Norton, Chambourcin, Chardonel, Seyval Blanc – grapes capable of making excellent wine.
This thought came to mind on two different levels. First, as I made the 2.5 hr. drive up to our cottage last night, sans iPod, I was relegated to winding roads through small towns and local am radio featuring country music stations and high school football games. This is America for most of the country, not the idealized European fantasy. Second, the thought came to mind weeks ago as I toured Creekbend vineyard, the estate vineyard of Oliver Winery in Bloomington, IN.
Viewing the vineyard, and then tasting the Chambourcin and the Traminette, these are good wines—not good wines for what they are, but good wines, period.
And, they are interesting, conversational wines, as well.
Sadly, this shift in mindset takes influence from the highest levels. AppellationAmerica does this, but it will have to come from elsewhere, as well. Popular wine media will have to get on the bandwagon, a notion they haven’t demonstrated much interest in aside from the occasional curiosity piece on New York or Texas wines.
That said, however, indicative of the times, though, is the fact that media is becoming fragmented and we are becoming our own change agents.
My wish is that local wines will grow in mindshare and awareness nationally. When you’re out shopping, California mass market wine in hand, set it down and grab something unknown, nestle it next to the locally grown produce and the heirloom tomato and celebrate the local bounty. If nothing else, forsake the outside influence and start it from within.
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