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In Defense of Wine Opinion and Controversy

Over the last month or so, I’ve been spending a good amount of time checking out blogs—and blogs outside of the normal sphere of blog reading that I already do with wine, food and technology.

With the re-launch of Good Grape I’ve been trying to get a read on what other pockets of the blogosphere are doing with their sites.

And, frankly, I’m trying to get a bead on why wine writing isn’t toppling other forms of wine media like we’re seeing in other mainstream affinity areas.  We have no Arianna Huffington.  Certainly, wine blogging triumphs are happening on a smaller scale.  Though, it’s almost as if we’re granted a seat at the adult table at Thanksgiving, and not barbarians at the gate toppling the Gestapo of traditional media (as we’ve seen in other verticals).

I’m seeing an interesting mix of evolution, overall.  Blogging started out as a shorter form of writing; it was a sort of diary style mode of communication. Blogging is slowly, but surely morphing into longer form pieces—not reporting, but certainly more reasoned analysis.  In a lot of instances, blog writing is better than mainstream pieces.

I’ve read a couple of football related blogs that break down the nuance’s of a Cover-2 defense in a match up between team A and team B that is not only insightful content, but likely information that couldn’t be produced in a newsroom and if it could it would never see the light of day.

An undeniable trend is the fact that people expect context with their information.  Straight news reporting that gives just the facts is leaving people short—folks want to understand the situational or dynamic context to a situation.

The other undeniable fact is that people want opinion.  When you take somebody’s opinion counter-balanced with analysis that provides context than you’re coming close to having a 360 degree perspective on an issue that allows you to render your own opinion.  They say the definition of intelligence is being able to argue both sides of an issue.

Blogging is and has been moving away from a form of personal expression and more into a communication vehicle to help people learn and understand.

Unfortunately, I think the wine blogosphere can do a lot better in the “providing opinions” department.

I’ve been reading numerous established wine bloggers give an overview of their ethical wine compass over the last couple of months replete with full tasting methodologies and, predominantly, the notion that they don’t write about wines, media, or anything that they don’t like.  Simply, those opinions go unexpressed; they are repressed into the “Dale Carnegie” school of politeness. 

I find this curious.  And, I’m willing to offer up my opinion and say that the benign amongst us would be better stewards for the wine blogosphere if a strong dose of opinion was offered up.

Undoubtedly, the wine industry is genteel, friendly and a bastion for folks that do right for others as much as they do for themselves, but that stance in wine writing will never topple the media elite in the industry and create a truly egalitarian approach to wine, breaking down the snobbery that everybody purports to be working against. 

I was browsing Slate, the online NPR-like news magazine, the other day and they’ve figured out this quasi opinion-analysis-reporting angle.  Their wine writer, Michael Steinberger, is writing primarily in this first-person style and proffering positions.  Headlines, too, leave little doubt about the magazine’s support of his position.

In reference to the Oxford Companion to Wine the headline reads,

“The Most Useful Wine Book Ever”

In reference to Thanksgiving the headline reads,

“The Perfect Thanksgiving Wine”

A Book Review headline reads,


“The latest edition of The Joy of Cooking falls short”

Unequivocally, I know where Slate stands—just as I know what a movie critic thinks about a movie and just as I know where a columnist is coming from … and I’m reminded that Parker attained his position in the industry by indefatigably defending the correctness of his opinion, changing the industry as he went.

Generally speaking, the wine industry is years and years behind other industry in progressiveness, resisting and clinging to a bygone way of doing business.  The wine blogosphere should be leading the way, pulling the industry kicking and screaming into a new day of kicking ass and taking names, complete with opinions, complete with calling a spade a spade.  Media, influencers and alpha consumers lead the way.  Who will join me in this call to arms?

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Posted in, Free Run: Field Notes From a Wine Life. Permalink | Comments (8) | Print | Email This


Comments

On 11/23, el jefe wrote:

Excellent post! A few things:

1. Maybe we’re not toppling verticals because we’re too busy drinking them...?

2. Huffington was a Common Tater in print and broadcast media long before she was a blogger. She brought a whole established constituency with her to the internet. Definitely what I would call a running start!

3. Huffington has some very charged issues to rally around and argue about. Where are our controversies? Hint: we have them, we’re just stepping clear of them (Tom Wark being an exception...) “The Joy of Cooking Falls Short” Great. Next!

4. A blog is just a website. The key innovation is that you don’t have to be a web designer to add content AND the blog then organizes the content for you. Without blog software Huffington (or you!) would need a web designer every time she wanted to publish something. Of course, this is kind of like saying a printing press is a way to create more books. A blog puts the power of the internet into the hands of everyone (um, with a computer).

4a. Oh yeah, and then there is this commenting thing...smile

5. Count me in!

On 11/23, Jeff Lefevere wrote:

Jeff,

Thanks for the comments.  Damn, so somebody does read this ...  grin

Maybe Huffington isn’t the best example, but the point is the wine blogosphere needs somebody that has ascended to the mainstream jetstream of public consciousness and has done so it with a definable platform.  I’d love to have somebody shake the system up.

Tom is a notable exception and I love that he gives often pointed opinions.  I frequently agree with him, as well. 

My real issue is with an overly polite and cautious (read:  feckless and neutered)approach to reviews and the notion that a bad wine wouldn’t be reviewed.  I think mimic’ing the way mainstream media reviews wines is an attempt to try and join them and I think the blogosphere is better served rankling the establishment.

Thanks again for the comment!

On 11/24, el jefe wrote:

Well, rankle away - just don’t p*ss off any of your clients!

And therein lies the rub - you start rankling too much and your supply of samples will dry up. And how many bloggers can afford to pay for enough samples to be relevant? I see your chicken and raise you an egg…

On 11/24, St.Vini wrote:

Ok, I’m all for fighting city hall, but what are you fighting for?  Specifically, what change are you hoping to effect?  More ascerbic reviews would be entertaining, but skewed due to issues with corked wines, bottle variations, etc.  What’s wrong with wine that we need the vitriol?

Personally, I think the reasons that wine blogging hasn’t emerged in a bigger way are varied - far too many blogs to possibly get through consistently, limited audience (not many casual wine drinkers want to spend time online geeking about wine), and that your audience, though limited, is already fairly happy with the wine world.  Those who would seek out a wine blog are already “into” wine and like its seemingly infinite variations and nuances.  They just want to know about hot new releases, or great values, etc. but aren’t looking to change the wine world.

I would like to see more Americans drinking wine.  85% of the wine consumed in this country is drunk by ~20% of the over-21 adults.  THAT is an interesting use of blogging, IMO.

V

On 11/24, Nancy wrote:

Couldn’t agree with you more, Jeff.  When you look at how few wineries blog, much less offer podcasts, it’s pretty telling.  What a traditional, but wonderful business we’ve chosen!  Together we can drag it, “kicking and screaming” into the 21st century!

On 11/25, Jeff Lefevere wrote:

Good comments, all of them.  Thanks! 

El Jefe, I have to make note as a blog, I have no clients.  I’m very careful to not let the bounds of my professional employ bleed too much over into my personal blog.  And, I’m also not afraid to speak a well-crafted cogent opinion, even if that is contrary to anothers opinion--like a columnist in a newspaper would.  I’m not too afraid of wine samples drying up, I ‘ll take them when I get them, but it’s inaccurate to think that any wine blogger is drinking exclusively comped wine.  I drink 97% out of my own wallet.

Vini, in general, what I am fighting for is the gap between the wine enthusiast and the wine media to close.  I’m a complete and utter wine geek, but most wine media doesn’t resonate with me.  I don’t drive a jaguar, or buy Bulova watches, which is the advertising you see in Spectator, et al.  I’m hoping for something that hits me--an educated, somewhat hip 34 year old guy that loves wine and food.  And I think wine blogging hitting traditional media between the eyes can help deliver the message. 

Thanks again, to all, for the thoughts.

Jeff

On 11/26, St.Vini wrote:

Wine X magazine?

My main criticism of them is that, in order to avoid losing their free samples, they don’t publish anything remotely negative about the wines they review.

V

On 11/27, Farley wrote:

As someone who’s loved wine for years but only recently stepped into the wine-blogging world, I had no idea there were so many.  I agree with Vini that may be part of the problem.  However, in the small percentage I’ve been reading, I’ve been finding opinions, and not just from Tom.

Perhaps now, while my numbers are low and samples nonexistent, is the best time to really put forth my own.

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