April 12 2006
Much has been made in the past about categorizing wine drinker’s--are they "core" or are they "marginal" wine drinkers, are they "satisfied sippers" or are they ... and on and on.
I suppose this is the marketers need to have everything fit into a box so they can subsequently "think outside" of the box.
I, personally, like to take elements of faux intelligentsia--the philosophy, theories and research academia that edge into mainstream culture and apply it to the world of wine--a sort of Freakonomics for the wine world. Usually it fits because wine is such a different consumer animal then most other items that we buy--it can be a high involvement purchase, yet a commodity and it’s highly personal because we actualize ourselves with wine--meaning we take benefits off the consumption more intrinsically then just the enjoyment of the wine.
Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs says, essentially, that as humans meet their basic needs, they begin to try and satisfy an increasingly higher set of needs.
Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs is broken into these components:
1. Physiological
2. Safety
3. Love/Belonging
4. Esteem
5. Actualization
Here’s a one sentence crack at my linkage between the two:
1) Physiological (Text book Definition): The physiological needs of an organism for survival.
Not much wine here, but many would argue that wine is a basic tenant need for life--next to water; and in fact, back in the nineteenth century, wine was drunk in lieu of water, when water wasn’t safe.
2) Safety (Textbook Definition): We are safe, we are out of harm’s way and safe in family, job, comfort, income
This probably the area where wine has the least relevance. Though, undoubtedly, a good number of folks worry about the safety of their Chateau D’Yquem. Or, in a different light, the need for safety can be the reason that we reach for a tried and true bottle of wine, a known quantity, as opposed to something new when we have guests over that we want to impress.
3) Love/Belonging (Textbook Definition): This involves emotionally-based relationships in general, such as friendship, sexual intimacy, and/or having a family
Can you say wine, here. Yes. This is definitely the need to have an affinity with a group--wine drinker’s being a distinct group unto themselves.
4) Esteem (Textbook Definition): Humans have a need to be respected, to self-respect and to respect others.
This classically ties into the ongoing advancement of people’s wine education and their exploration into the world of wine--from California to Int’l and the entire lifecycle of wine self-discovery
5) Actualization (Textbook Definition): instinctual need of humans to make the most of their unique abilities.
People are chucking their job everyday to move to wine country (to actualize their love of wine) and to create wineries. Accountants turned vintner. See this article in Wine Business Monthly on the number of wineries--particularly interesting is the number of "virtual" wineries--people that are making wine without physical facilities--a phenomena, presumably, that is by folks just getting started and trying to capitalize.
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April 10 2006
There is an ongoing debate going on: folks are forming non for profits to fight wine mark-ups in restaurants and the corkage debate, particulary in California, is a hot button issue for wine lover’s who are asked to pay sometimes steep fees to bring their wines to a restaurant.
The San Francisco Chronicle had a very long look at the issue. And, it’s complex,and regional. The issues in California are likely not mirrored elsewhere--and definitely not in the Midwest, save, for perhaps, Chicago.
When Craig Stoll decided to prohibit diners from bringing their own wines into his Pizzeria Delfina, he didn’t think he was doing anything newsworthy.
Was he ever wrong.
Just ask the angry pack of wine-toting customers huddled on the sidewalk outside Stoll’s San Francisco pizzeria on a Friday night after they were told they’d have to leave their bottles at the door.
Sure, it’s just a pizza place, and with a very reasonably priced wine list. Yet the backlash that ensued when Pizzeria Delfina opened in July 2005 with its don’t-bring-your-own-bottle policy shows that the ability to take one’s own wine into Bay Area restaurants has become as commonplace -- and accepted -- as sharing plates. It also spotlighted the dilemma restaurateurs face when they create their BYOB policies -- and few Bay Area restaurants don’t allow the practice.
Restaurants charge what’s called a "corkage" fee to open and serve the wines brought in by patrons, but corkage doesn’t make up for lost sales from the restaurants’ wine lists, or the resources it takes to pour customers’ wines. BYOB also shows a disregard, restaurateurs say, for the wine program they have carefully crafted to match their cuisine and atmosphere.
The Owner, Craig Stoll, continues:
"I just don’t understand what the whole fuss is about," Stoll says. "We’re working really hard at putting our wine program together. It’s our package, our vision. The program is part of the restaurant, like a painting on the wall or the food on your plate. I don’t understand why people feel so entitled to bring their own.
"What if you collected fine tablecloths from all over the world, and you don’t ever cook at home so you wanted to bring one in to eat off of? It’s ridiculous."
Um, Craig? Can I help you with something--especially in creating analogies that resonant and make sense? Tablecloths? Craig, you don’t charge me a 2.5X mark-up specifically on your table linen, do you?
On the whole, I’m going to leave this subject alone, lest I get into a 1000 word screed about how happy customers and positive word of mouth creates more customers.
Fortunately, this chapter excerpt and a mini-case study from a guy that sells bikes in competition against Wal-Mart in Connecticut illustrates, he who gets it, gets the customers. A good scan for anybody--and a good lesson for a pizzaria to take from a bike shop--both independent retailers and old vestiges of Main Street America.
In addition, Zane calculated what any customer was worth to him over a buying lifetime. That’s why when a customer came into Zane’s store with a six-year-old pump that was completely worn out from use, Zane happily gave him a brand new pump. Let’s look at his economic analysis for this pump. This six-year-old, worn-out pump was a top-of-the-line item originally costing $60. So you might jump to the conclusion that Zane was out $60. However, the pump’s cost to Zane was only about $30. Moreover, in this case, because of his relationship with the manufacturer, he was credited with the $30, so giving the customer a new pump actually cost Zane nothing. Even if the pump had cost Zane $30, replacing it for free still made economic sense. The next two times this customer came in to his store, he bought $200 in accessories. Zane netted about $100. Moreover, when the customer decided to buy his next bicycle, where was he likely to go? So, Zane made even more. And, what about word-of-mouth advertising to other prospects? That’s probably worth a lot more.
Wine? Bikes? Anything that is bought and sold in retail--it’s all about the customer.
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April 10 2006
A fairly culturally engaging weekend, by most standards--I went to an art gallery exhibition on Friday night to support a friend who was exhibiting some photography work and I went to non profit fundraiser on Sunday afternoon--a kind of Iron Chef chef competition where four chefs competed with a secret ingredient to create one dish for judges review. Both were fun and interesting and both served wine.
The arts, culture and non profits being what they are: a social playground for people that are in the creative class, or aspire to be, I was struck by the wines served. Usually these types of events hit the sweet spot demographically for wine drinkers--at every public art showing I’ve ever been to there’s usually bottles of wine open alongside some munchies.
And, heck, wine and non for profit events go together like peanut butter and jelly. In my city there are at least four major fundraisers with a wine-related theme.
But, aside from the major fund raising events where the wine stakes are raised, oddly, what I cannot reconcile, is why "cheap as cheap gets" wines are served at the rest of these functions. At the art gallery there was a Charles Shaw Chardonnay and a 1.5 liter of Yellowtail.
If this is "bottled poetry" then Walt Whitman must have taken to Haiku.
At the non for profit, in the bistro seating, where you actually got to sample the food that was created by the chefs, they were serving Papio Merlot and Chardonnay.
The Papio Merlot was actually a revelation--a revelation neither good, nor bad. Just interesting--and very rarely do I drink Merlot. This is $5 wine and an absolute fruit bomb. You might have thought that somebody used a cherry lollipop as a swizzle stick in this stuff. Completely mindless wine with no discerning varietal character, but darn if it wasn’t sluggable and acceptable at that point in time.
From the Papio Web site:
Papio wines are all about the fruit, and as smooth as your favoritegroove. Our 2004 Merlot brims with lush, ripe plum and red cherrycharacter intermingled with hints of violet and spice. The silky,fruity flavors are framed by soft tannins, making this a perfect redwine to just sip with appetizers or to pair with entrees. Invitefriends over for a Spanish tapas party or shish kebobs and vegetableson the grill. You’ll find our easy-to-love Merlot a perfect complementto so many of your favorite foods.
Though, overall, I still have to long for a nicer wine at these events--something where alleged culturally savvy discriminating supporters of the arts can have a glass of wine that provokes conversation, or at the least something that might drive a subsequent purchase by a customer. I came away with my interest piqued enough to write a blog post in a contrarian kind of way, but not interested enough to actually by any of the wines served. And, ultimately, if you’re marketing a wine, I would think that these sampling types of opportunities would be the kind of thing a winery would want to get behind.
Alas, I continue my wait for a a Boony Doon, Dry Creek, or Rabbit Ridge glass of vino--something in the $8-12 price point, that might typically be donated and might drive consumer purchase after the fact.
Until then, nobody at these events charges a corkage fee, if, perhaps, ahem, you wanted to slip your own bottle in.
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April 9 2006
Inspired by this article in the San Francisco Chronicle on wine corkage fees
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April 7 2006
I was out for sushi last week and right after I ordered a Kirin to drink with my forthcoming sushi orgy, I saw a table tent highlighting a new wine designed especially for sushi--called Oroyo. Interesting. Sushi and wine haven’t always gone together because the flavors are so different.
When Igot home, I looked for it online. Made by Freixenet, it released in the states in 2004 and in Europe in 2005--I’m just behind the times, apparently.
Yoko Sato, a young Japanese winemaker with Freixenet, says that she hasfulfilled a dream, that of producing a wine perfectly suited to sushi.The brand dubbed, “Oroya” is made from Spanish grape varieties – Airen,Macebeo, Muscat of Alexandria – situated in the production zone of Vinode la Tierra in Castilla, Spain. According to Freixenet, the wine’sgentle acidity pairs well with the richness of raw fish, while itslight and fresh characteristics perfectly adjust to the strength of theWasbi, often hard to match. Oroya is available in a classy, elegantbottle suited to Japanese decor.
The San Francisco Chronicle had this to say in February:
Speaking of takeout, stop for sushi and uncork a unique wine made specifically for raw fish. The 2004 Oroya Tierra de Castilla ($8) from Spain is a blend of Airen, Macabeo and Muscat grapes made by Japanese winemaker Yoko Sato. With dusty, earthy aromas, sweet citrus flavors and taut acidity, the wine makes sushi sing.
With spring here, and a spot on the Friday evening couch beckoning, I would be remiss if I didn’t also offer up a movie recommendation based on wine and, er, a Japanese theme.
From no less a reputable source then Maxim magazine, The Legend of the Drunken Master made its way into the Top 20 All-Time Greatest Movie Drinkers.
The description from Maxim:
He’s like Popeye, only with booze instead of spinach. When Fei-hung drinks he becomes the Drunken Master and uses an invincible fighting style. The film boasts some of the best fight scenes and worst lessons for children ever.
New York Times Plot Summary here.
Fei-hung Drink of Choice: Wine
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