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Racing & Wine at Wine Sediments

Wellfed_1 I have a post on the Wine Sediments portion of the Well Fed network. You can find it here.

If have haven’t been reading this blog site, you should be.  It has unique content, interesting perspectives and everybody that writes for the site, except for me, is a wine professional in some capacity.

So, that’s motivation to bring your "A" game when writing about a topic or coming up with a unique take on a common wine related issue.

The other good thing is I can completely be psuedo-columnist and vaccillate and ride the fence on issues from week to week—which is fun.

This week, I write about wine and the Indianapolis 500.  Mario Andretti, a former winner, and perennial runner-up owns a winery that makes some good vino and both his son and grandson drove in the race this weekend—Marco being beaten at the very last moment in a very exciting finish.

Check out the post and let me know what you think. 


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Wine, Sangria and BBQ:  Turning Late Nights into Early Mornings for Decades

Sangria

Folkseverywhere will be firing up the barbecue this weekend for the first of theholy trinity of summer holidays.

Dependingon the food type, I think you really can’t go wrong with a wine trifecta ofZinfandel, Sauvignon Blanc and a Rośe.

TheZin’s can take care of the steaks and bbq, the Sav. Blanc can handle thegrilled vegetables and fish and a nice Rośe can really bridge the two.

Evenwith White Zinfandel sales dwindling, Rośe sales are picking up with somevigor.

Anda Rośe by any other name really, to borrow from Shakespeare, is a White Zin,but with two different target markets.

WhenRośe is featured in Food & Wine magazine and Martha Stewart Living as theyboth are this month, you know that the demographic is probably skewing a littlebit closer to your preferred wine consumers then the average White Zin which isconsumed by more casual drinkers.

JaimeGoode, from his site Wine Anorak, had this nugget on Rośe, the rest of thearticle can be found here.

Just a note on how rosé wines are made. Red grapesare crushed and only brief contact is allowed between the skins (which containthe coloured pigments and tannins) and the juice (which comes from thecolourless flesh of the grape). [I should add here, that there are some rarered grapes which have pigmented flesh, called teinturier varieties, butthis is the exception. These cannot by definition be used to make rose.] It isthe degree of the contact between the skins and the juice that determines thefinal colour of the wine. Thus rosé wines lack both the deep colour and thetannic structure of red wines made from the same grape varieties, and in thissense are more like white wines, and are best served very cold. It is also rareto find rose wines subjected to oak treatment.

The other aspect of wine consumption that isgrowing rapidly, especially amongst younger drinkers, is Sangria.

I attribute this to the re-awakening of awareness to the Spanish wine industry. And, RealSangria, isBarbecue_1 packaged with a “never went out of style” retro labeling. Spain, of course, is credited with creatingsangria—specifically the Andalucia region, where it is kind of the officialdrink of the region, the southernmost part of Spain.

Sangria, in general, is a wine-ish, citrusy spritzer;it’s a refreshing and sluggable drink that my wife can put away by the halfgallon.

Here at the Good Grape household, we’re not big onthe wine/food blogging aspect, leaving that to folks that really are morecommitted and better cooks than my bride or me. But, because she does do a really nice sangria, I’m including therecipe here.

And, her preferred version is with a WhiteZinfandel. Ahem. If you, mr./mrs wine consumer prefer to usea White Zinfandel because it’s at least $6 cheaper, I promise not to tell.

Basic Red Sangria

1 orange

1 apple

1 lemon

1 cinnamon stick or a dash of ground cinnamon

1 C sugar

1 C brandy

1.5 liters of the cheapest Cab you can find.

Wash and slice fruit. Put it into a big pitcher with the sugar and cinnamon, then add the and wine. Refrigerate overnight, then addbrandy. Serve over ice in oversized goblets, diluted (about 1/2) withsomething carbonated. Some people use soda water, but I like diet Cherry7-up. If you want to be "authentic" use Fanta! And make sure everyonegets fruit.

These white and pink variations are basically the same as the red.It’s always a cup of sugar, 3 fruits, and 1.5 liters (or 2 bottles ifthat’s what you’ve got) of wine. The brandy only goes into the redversion. I always use Diet Cherry 7up.

White sangria is the same recipe (sans brandy) as red, but youshould use a dry wine and 1 peach or nectarine, 1 lemon, and strawberries. Skipthe cinnamon on this one.

My absolute favorite way to make sangria is to use white zin withoranges, apples, and maraschino cherries. Use the cherry juice to make it"dirty" and don’t skimp on the cinnamon.

Enjoy the weekend. Drinksome wine. Grill some food. Hang out with friends and family and hold ontight. Summer blows by quickly andfootball season and harvest will be here as quick as you can recall how closeValentine’s day seems.

Salud!


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Sending a Boy to Do a Man’s Job:  Winemaking

EquipmentLastyear as a wedding gift from my wife she bought me a gift certificate to aU-vint place so we could make some wine together.

Iwaxed philosophic as I remembered my grandfather having a nip of some homemadefruit wine with neighbors when I was a kid. I was channeling his spirit forthe day when I too could open an unmarked brown bottle and admire and sip the sweetnectar.

Thisgift was also given after two failed attempts to do this myself in the basementwith kits a couple of years ago at which point I started looking down my noseat the kits thinking they were for the kind of people that think the local summer Italian festival is like going to Rome.

Mygrandfather’s spirit notwithstanding, there is a difference between theneighborly fruit wines of the day and the concentrate.

TheU-vint place itself was one of those concentrate kit places that is permittedby the state as a winery. I think theco-owner has a Russian mail-order bride whom he kind of lords over waiting tocorrect her when she gets off message in a thick Eastern European accent formore than 15 seconds, but that’s a whole ‘nother story. At this place, you do a tasting, you pick outthe wine you like, you do about 45 minutes worth of work with yeast, water withsome carboys and your concentrate and then you come back six weeks later tobottle it.

Mostly,because of the concentrate nature, the white wines work a little bit betterthan the reds because of the level of finesse required between the two in anactual winemaking operation.

Despitethat, I still chose a red wine. Forevery one bottle of white I drink, I drink 10 bottles of red, so if I was goingto make four or five cases of something a red it was going to be.

Whenwe bottled it I sampled a half glass of it. They tell you to let it bottle age for three months and even longerwould be better.

This,I have now found, is absolutely true.

Whenbottling, to say the wine was dreadful wouldn’t be fair. To say that it was good wouldn’t have been fair,either. It was straddling the linebetween favorable doubt and enjoyment—something that doesn’t even, really, lenditself to gift giving to friends and family.

Now,some five months later, I am happy (very happy) to report that the wine isdefinitely quaffable. It’s a drinkablered. It’s positioned as an Amarone, butbecause decent Amarone’s from Italy are $50 and up, let’s callthis Paisano Red with an off-dry raison-y undercurrent. This is definitely best served after ½ hr. inthe fridge to chill it off of room temperature.

Theidea of wine concentrates and U-vint places is a derivative off of a robusthome winemaking market that seems to be growing by leaps and bounds.

Ihave heard of pockets of folks in New Jersey and California that actually make winefrom their own grapes, but for the most part, a lot of folks do the equivalentof car customization with their wine kits and tweak, tweak, tweak the wine totheir satisfaction.

Itshould come as no surprise that the bold winemakers amongst us want to entertheir vino in competition against like competitors to see how well theyfare. Winemaker magazine held an amateurwine competition and had a record 2,417 entries. Wow. That’s a lot of wine. I’mguessing that magazine bake-off’s don’t get that many entries and there are alot more people that bake muffins then make wine.

FromWineMaker magazine:

FromApril 28 to April 30, wine judges evaluated a record 2,417 entries in the 2006WineMaker International Amateur Wine Competition. The 2006 edition of theWineMaker International Amateur Wine Competition represented the largest andmost diverse collection of amateur wines ever assembled. The 2,417 entriesarrived from hobby winemakers living in over 40 American states and 8 Canadianprovinces. Over the course of three days, judging panels worked through over450 flights, examining each wine using the UC-Davis 20-point wine scaleevaluating appearance, aroma, taste, after taste and overall impression. Thewines were entered in 50 different categories and included an astonishing arrayof varietals and wine styles. Kit wines competed alongside fresh-grape entriesin this blind tasting.

Interestingly,in the results for straight varietals, you will find a ton of kits.

I’minterested enough to try it again when I get into a bigger house with betteraccommodations for winemaking and sanitation, etc. And, interested enough to drink it down anduse it to cook with.

Ican recommend it as a nice gift giving opportunity around the holidays, too,for casual wine drinking friends that will dig the novelty.

But,make no mistake; nobody will mistake this wine for anything that will bring aman to his knees in deep reflection. Forthat, I believe, you must go the fruit or the grape route and manage the entireprocess yourself and trial and error through thousands of dollars and and a dozen years.

At least the wine shop is close by.  I hear wineries are exploding in growth.


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New World

Inspired by the overall Biodynamics debate and this blog post from Wine Caveman.  An overview explanation from his post:

It is difficult to speak of biodynamics without waxing philosophic.While it parallels organic farming in it’s use of organic materials forenriching the microbiology of the soil, it embraces a much moreholistic vision that sees any farm as a single organism whose successor failure is dependant upon the health of the greater organism in it’sentirety. Unlike both chemical and organic agriculture, it is notsolely based on the ‘soluable,’ the simple reduction of a plants needsto elemental additions of nutrients, but ties the plants health into amore unified ecological vision. It is concerned with the subtlemanipulation of life forces (energies) and aims to work alongside theserhythms of nature.

New_world_organic_2


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Mario Batali:  Zen Master of Food & Wine

EscaWhen in New York recently my bride and I enjoyed a sevencourse wine-paired tasting menu at Esca—Mario Batali’s fish restaurant.

Imentioned in a post before that the absolute standout of the wines presentedwas a barbaresco. I was mildly franticwhen I came home because I had tucked away the menu so I could have a record ofthe wine and only within the recesses of the suitcase, tucked behind a dirtypair of socks from nine trips ago, did it materialize. The menu changes frequently and my hopes forrecovering the name of the wine served were probably pretty good, but still itwas a relief to find it nestled amongst some dirty laundry, just the same.

Thebarbaresco was the 2000 Cascina Morassino. Made from the Nebbiolo grape, which is notorious for being very difficultto drink in its youth based on extreme tannins—though, this one wasexceptional. Medium bodied and pairedwith fish, it was lively and eminently drinkable—so much so that I drank mywife’s glass, as well.

Batali’s partner in crime …er… restaurants is a guy namedJoe Bastianich, who is also a wine importer in his own right, so I was somewhatsurprised that he wasn’t pimping just his wines, but Mario and Joe, from adistance, both strike me as extremely authentic in that the food and thecustomer come first and profits will arise out of that service—a mistakencontrast for so many other businesses.

From the importer’s web site:

 The ten acre CascinaMorassino farm is located in the steep Ovello zone of Barbaresco proper. Run byRoberto Bianco, age 38, and his father Mauro, it is one of Barbaresco’s oldestproducers. Though Roberto continues to attentively adapt to each vintage, a1971 Barbaresco Morassino he and I recently enjoyed, shows that his fatherMauro did things spectacularly well in the pure, old fashioned style. Needlessto say, Roberto and Maura do everything themselves. They would never even thinkof passing off vineyard work to someone else.

ItalianNebbiolo producers have been working with the wine to make them more drinkable while they are youthful. The importer’s web site for the Cascina Morrassino seems to alludeto this:

Roberto’swines show the unique, fragrant side of Nebbiolo but they never lose the spicygrip of Nebbiolo. These wines show that Barbaresco in the modern day does nothave to give up its deeper roots.

Ironicallyenough, I found this wine and purchased it online at … a NYC wine shop—one thatTylerCascinamorassinologo from Dr. Vino recommends—Crush Wine & Spirits. Had I known that, I certainly would havebought it while in town. But,nonetheless, this beauty of a wine is worth $30 in shipping

Eventhough it was very nice with a strawberry-ruby hue and a soft bouquet, Iimagine it was well-decanted.

Whileat MoMA on the same trip, I saw an incredibly handsome decanter for anincredible price. It has six grooves inthe stopper so it disperses the wine down the sides of the decanter—and,Developer2supposedly, creates more opportunity for oxygenation. The L’Atlelier Du Vin was $145, however. If you are dying to spend money on adecanter the likes of which has dubious merit above and beyond the $15 versionat Bed, Bath & Beyond, you can find it here.

But,for my money, if you were asking for a recommendation, I would buy 4 bottles ofthe Cascino Morrassino for the same amount of money.  It’s the wine that makes a meal and event and certainly our meal was an event made special by a delicious wine.


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