February 13 2008

Wine Blogging Wednesday is inspiring this month. Just seven words is the host request. It is hard to write with constraint. Try though, I have, with varying success.
Phew, there you have it--four sentences comprised of seven words. Bless the poet who can write like that in rhyming couplets.
Now, I just need to do a couple more sentences with actual wine descriptions. I am beginning to wonder if Andrew created this challenge as some sort of antagonistic vehicle for the most verbose and flowery of the wine bloggers—truly, I am a man of carefully chosen spoken words, but abundant diarrhea of the pen. Therefore, I find the “Just Seven Words” combined with an Italian red to be a bit anachronistic given that, in my minds eye, Italy is the last bastion of Old World de-stressed, non hustle and bustle. So, compressing something like a wine review into such a short amount of words is something of an oxymoron. We should all be writing 500 words of linguistic masturbation.
That said, I have reviewed two nice Italian red wines. The first is the 2004 Morgante Nero D’Avola (about $17). I did two notes for this one—it is like a choose your own adventure wine review, if you do not like the first one, you can go with the second one …
While Funky on the Nose, it’s Delicious
Or
Cherry Trees in Tobacco Field by Barnyard
The second wine is the 2004 Umbria, IGT, Ca’ Andrea, Carlo Massimiliano Gritti (about $17). Likewise, I did two notes for this one, as well.
Bitingly Racy with Earthy Ripe Red Fruit
Or
Vintner Makes Production Wine that Tastes Small
Overall, a fun and engaging Wine Blogging Wednesday. Thanks Andrew!
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January 22 2008

Since the beginning, I have been a big fan of the concept of Crushpad Wine. However, being a fan of their business concept and being an advocate based on their wines are two different things.
I was straddling the line between being the equivalent of a business admirer versus being a stark, raving consumer fan. I knew that they had produced a couple of nice wines in their first few vintages, but, just the same, the proof is in the palate, my palate that is, and I hadn’t actually tasted any of their vino.
I might be crossing the chasm to stark, raving consumer fan given the first two bottles from the case that I have had of the ’06 Cellar Rat Cellars Anderson Valley Pinot Noir.
I signed up relatively late for Alan Baker’s Cellar Rat wine project (chronicled here), and I am glad I did, not missing the opportunity. As explained by Alan on his site, he, essentially, spent his last bit of savings to make this wine, hoping that it was a good bet not only for quality, but also for realizing his wine dream.
It was a good bet. Wow. This is nice juice. And, he got a job out of the deal, too, now working with and for Michael Brill, Crushpad CEO on their Crushnet initiative.
For Alan, this is a boutique project—boutique as in small—not boutique as in kind of small. I think total production of the Cellar Rat Cellars Pinot is 75 cases. Given the smallness of the project, it makes the $42 bottle price, while, yes, a bit dear, worth every penny.
The Pinot is a very nice balance between having some of the “Old World” food-friendly acid and earthiness components that you would expect alongside some amazingly succulent California fruit upfront, all done in a restrained manner; it is not blowsy or rendered too tightly.
The thing that I like most about this wine, however, is its natural state. According to Alan, who generously spent a 1 ½ hours with me in May of ’07 doing barrel samples, is the wine went into fermentation with natural yeasts—no inoculation. Which, given Crushpad’s location in San Francisco, makes that fact pretty cool, particularly given the result. The other good decision that Alan made with the wine is to not filter it. It has obviously been fined, but not to the extent where it is completely free of all wine detritus. It is clear, but not brilliant and there is a rustic quality to the wine that, when paired with the earthiness in the flavor profile, makes it a special wine.
Alan thinks it will age for the next five years or so—the acid and the subtle oak influence being indicators that it needs some time to reach its peak. This, alongside the fact that a little decanting really opens up the wine, particularly on the nose, gives indication that its best days may be in the months/years to come. However, in my humble opinion, this wine will not last five years, at least not in my house. I will drink it before it sees its peak, color me impatient if you must.
The ’06 Cellar Rat Cellars Anderson Valley (Wentzel Vineyard) Pinot Noir also just won a Bronze medal at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition against some notable competition. Other Bronze Pinot winners in this price range include DeLoach, Consentino, Londer, Navarro, MacMurray and others. It is good company.
Alan tells me that there is a very small quantity of the wine left. If you are interested in picking up a bottle or three you can do so with the commerce functionality that Alan has set-up. (found here)
Quoting New York Times wine writer Eric Asimov (here) in regards to Pinot Noir, he says, “… No other wine forges as direct a path to the soul.” With the quality of the Cellar Rat wine and the story of how it came to be with Alan Baker, I would have to say I think Asimov is right on target.
My tasting note is found here.
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January 16 2008

Usually I have a moderately interesting story for my Wine Blogging Wednesday wine selection--some sort of madcap purchasing story, morality tale or taste revelation.
Today is no different.
My white from the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region wine, as stipulated by our gracious hosts, Jack & Joanne from the Fork & Bottle was, in a word, interesting. My wine selection, which set me back a whopping $7.99, might be the most interesting wine I’ve ever had. But, you know, interesting in the kind of way where somebody asks you your opinion and you don’t exactly know what to say, but your inclination is negative, so you just say the benign “interesting.” The wine is so interesting in fact that I’m channeling my inner Chateau Petrograsm--words can’t describe this wine adequately.
So, with that in mind, the following is a link to my single picture which encapsulates the wine.
‘01 Forchir Villa del Borgo Chardonnay
My tasting note review for the same wine can be found here.
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January 13 2008

Here at Good Grape, I have a couple of wine quirks—peccadillos, if you will. They include my disdain for Rosé, my favor for a nice, local cordial fruit wine (i.e. sweet) when the occasion calls, my belief that Moscato d’Asti and Lambrusco are under-appreciated and that Chenin Blanc is, likewise, un-necessarily not understood in the US marketplace.
I’ll save for another day the fact that I love Barbaresco’s and Barolo’s and can scarcely afford either one of them on a regular basis; my dichotomy between high and low brow, especially amongst Italian wine, is sufficient enough to merit some psychiatric review, I think, but, hey, I can do spaghetti and meatballs alongside northern Italian, as well.
Of the aforementioned pecadillos, the one that I think has the greatest opportunity to NOT brand me a typical ‘Ugly American’ with a sweet tooth is Chenin Blanc, though it too can be made off-dry or demi-sec. However, as one of the Loire Valley’s notable contributions to the world of wine, Chenin Blanc is incredibly versatile and is poised to grow in the U.S. from its previously dismal acreage under vine and under the auspices of being a dry wine with high acidity.
Unscientifically, it seems that with the increasing move towards conscientious food friendliness in wine and some of the steam we have seen in the marketplace with Viognier is also benefiting Chenin. It does not hurt that Int’l producers are producing some very lovely Chenin Blanc, joining Dry Creek Vineyard, the only domestic producer that comes to mind that makes a something a cut above plonk and a wine that has long been an insiders “value” buy.
Dr. Debs had a nice post the other day on cross-training your palate. I’ve been really into whites this winter for some reason and one of the best things I can think of is to cross-train for the spring time, when reds become a bit heavy and you’re searching for something different. I happen to be doing this now, and I’m recommending you do the same. Set aside the Sav. Blanc., go easy on the Chardonnay (even if it is un-oaked) and try a Chenin Blanc, I think you’ll come away with new appreciation for a growing varietal and you’ll be months ahead of the game come April when you’re thinking about whites.
*Note* Chenin Blanc is very susceptible to too much cold muting the nose and the flavor profile. Do not overchill your Chenin. Cellar temperature—55 degrees is sufficient to let the flavors bloom in the glass.
My review for the ’04 Ken Forrester Chenin Blanc is here.
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January 8 2008

You have to hand it to Joel Gott. He’s a thirty-something small business titan with his hands in so many projects that it would make the likes of Donald Trump proud.
Based on a very cursory and un-fact checked search of the web, Gott is a partner in The Rebel Wine Co. which produces “Three Thieves” and “The Show” wines, he has his own label called, duh, Joel Gott Wines, he runs Taylor’s Refresher, a retro-cool burger stand on highway 29 in the valley, he co-owns the Palisades Market in Calistoga, and apparently he also runs a couple of other things as well like a car wash.
Phew. Got all that? I try to make it through the workday and find time to blog while keeping my wife happy by taking out the trash.
There’s a lot to like about most of the projects Gott is involved in … the burgers are tasty at Taylor’s Refresher, his Joel Gott line of wines are notably lauded in some years, in some varietals, for being exceptional values and ‘The Show’ wines in which he is a partner have some amazing graphical label appeal, having the label designed by world-renowned print shop Hatch Show Print, of which I am a big fan. I still think that there is a viable online business for somebody to design hip rock show posters for wine properties in their traditional 11 x 14 format and sell them online for Gen. Y oenophiles. In fact, I would do it myself if I didn’t try to make it through the workday and find time to blog while keeping my wife happy by taking out the trash. Wait, I think I already mentioned that … but you get the point.
Because of Gott’s overachieving ways, I decided to review both his 2005 Cabernet’s from ‘The Show’ line-up and Joel Gott wines.
Both wines showed admirably, and you can stylistically see the difference between the two—‘The Show’ is a party Cabernet where his Joel Gott line is more classically styled as a meritorious California wine—fruit forward, but with more complexity. Unfortunately, his eponymous label, despite showing broader character came up number two in the two horse race based on its short (non-existent?) finish.
Cheers to Joel Gott for being a being a man with his hand in many cookie jars, and a spirit towards making reasonably priced, creative wines. And, another cheer to him for doing his wine work in the midst of a bunch of other projects. Multi-taskers, in addition to wine lovers, everywhere should rejoice with a kindred spirit.
My tasting notes and review are linked below.
2005 The Show Cabernet Sauvignon
2005 Joel Gott Cabernet Sauvignon
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